Neckwear



Fatentecl Aug. 16, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT Nacxwnaa Alfred J.Steinberger,- Jamaica, N. Y., assignor to Celanese' Corporation ofAmerica, a oorporation of Delaware Application April 30, 1937, SerialNo. 139,854

9 Claims.

, invention described in my application, S. No.

82,185, iiled May 28, 1936.

Four-in-hand ties, as ordinarily made, comprise an outer casing offabric, hereinafter called the tie fabric, wherein there is arranged aliner of suitable material. When such a tie is placed about the collarof the wearer and tied, the folds 15 thereof too often fail to drapewell, necessitating the untying and the retying of the same until asatisfactory result is obtained. It is an object of this invention toproduce a necktie construction which will ensure a correct and neatlytied 20 four-in-hand necktie however unskilled or hurried the persondressing may be. Other objects of this invention, together with certaindetails of construction and combinations cf parts, will appear from thefollowing detailed description and 25 the appended clainis.

In its broadest aspect my invention comprises inserting in the folds ofa necktie a liner, hereinafter called a shaping liner, of suchconstruction that, when the necktie is placed about the 80 collar of thewearer and tied in a four-in-hand knot, the exposed necktie fold iscreased only in the center thereof starting at the knot and for a shortdistance below the same, the folds of the g necktie falling away fromthe knot in a neat, 35 gracefui drape. The shaping liner in accordancewith this invention may be of any suitable length. For example,'it maybe of substantially the same length as the necktie itself or it may beof such a length that it extends along a portion of the 40 necktie whichcontacts with the collarof the wearer and just below the portion of thetie to be folded in the form of a knot. Moreover, the shaping liner maybe in the form of a small insert of the desired conflguration.Furthermore. 45 in accordance with this invention, the shaping liner maybe formed with a notch at that end of the liner which is to be in thefold of the necktie normally exposed, i. e. the upper fold, or the linermay be formed with an opening 50 therein. The notched end of the lineror that portion of the liner having the Opening therein should be sopositioned that, when the knot is tied about the neck of the wearer, itfalls just within the lower part of the knot, the two spaced 55 stripsof the notched liner and a portion of the liner having the openingtherein extending for a substantial distance below the knot.l Ifdesired, an additional liner of wool or other suitable material may alsobe inserted within the folds of the tie fabric.

In another aspect of the invention, a liner of suitable material isinserted within the folds of the tie fabric at that portion thereofwhich normally lies under the back of the collar of the wearer and ashaping liner in the form of a notched piece of suitatble material isattached within the folds of the tie fabric at the point i spaced fromthe other liner and in such a position that, when the tie is iolded inthe form of a four-in-hand knot about the neck of the wearer, thenotched piece will lie just within the lower part of said knot, thespaced strips of said notched piece extending for a substantial distancebelow the knot. In this modication of my invention, also, an additionalliner of wool or other suitable material may be employed within thefolds of the tie fabric and retained in position in any suitable manner.

In the accompanying drawing, forming part of this speciflcation, whereinthe preferred embodiments of my invention are shown;

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of my necktie with part of the fabric cutaway to show the construction of the shaping liner;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the front or wide portion of the necktie, apart of the tie fabric being out away to show a modified form of myinvention;

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view of a necktie of my invention knotted about the collarand showing how the fold is creased just below the knot; and

Fig. 5 is a plan view, on a smaller scale than the other views of thedrawing, of another modifled form of the invention.

Similar reference numerals indicate like parts throughout the severalviews of the drawing.

Beferring to Flg. 1 of the drawing, reference numeral 6 indicates theouter or tie fabric which is out in a particular manner to be folded inthe form of a necktie and stitched as is well understood in the art. Aliner 1 of a suitable material is shown inserted within the folds of thenecktie but with certain tie fabrics this liner is not essential and maybe dispensed with. A shapingiliner 8 which may be made of or which may'contain a material adapted to effect the coalescence of this shapingliner to the tie fabric and, if desired, to the liner 1 is also showninserted within the outer to eiect the union therebetween, in which casethe necessity of sewing the liner in position is obviated.

In accordance with one modification of this invention, the shaping liner8 is provided with a notched end 9 forming two spaced strips II and I2which extend for a substantial distance below the point at which theknot of the necktie is normally tied. When the knot is formed in thenecktie made in accordance with this invention, the two strips II and I2prevent the material along the edges of said necktie from creasing, thecrease being formed in the opening between the two strips, thus makingfor a neat and graceful necktie on the person of the wearer.

In the modification shown in Fig. 2 of the drawing, the necktie may havea liner I3 such as that shown in my prior application S. No. 82,185 orthe tie may be constructed in'a normal manner, but at that portion ofthe necktie which normally falls below the knotted portion there ispositioned a piece of material I4, which will also be called a shapingliner, provided with a notch forming two strips I5 and I6 which extendfor a substantial distance below the knotted portion of the necktie.When the tie is tied about the neck of the wearer, the shaping liner I4causes the tie to have a graceful fold creased in the center just belowthe knot as in the modification shown in Fig. 1.

In the modification shown in Fig. 5, instead of a notched end theshaping liner I'I is formed with an Opening I8. This Opening ispositioned such that it falls where the notches fall in the other twomodifications and performs the sam function as the notches.

Many modifications of my invention may be made depending upon the tiefabric employed and the type of fabric employed in the liner or linersof the necktie. For instance, When forming the tie fabric from amaterial containing filaments of a thermoplastic material, the shapingliner may be of any material normally employed in the manufacture ofneckties. This shaping liner may or may not contain filaments of athermoplastic material. Where the tie fabric is made from a materialcontaining only nonthermoplastic fllaments or fibres, the shaping linermust contain a thermoplastic material at least at that portion of thenecktie which is to be coalesced to the other portions thereof. If thenecktie and the liner are both made from nonthermoplastic material anintermediate liner containing a thermoplastic material must be employed.

The tie fabric 6 may be formed of any suitable material such as linen,cotton, artificial silk, etc. Where, as stated, the tie fabric containsno thermoplastic material, it is preferable to have thermoplasticmaterial forming the shaping liner or at least woven into the fabric ofthe shaping liner.

In one form of my invention, the tie fabric G is formed ofnon-thermoplastic material such as sllk, cotton, wool, etc., while theshaping liner 8 is also formed ofnon-thermoplastic bmaterial such aslinen, cotton, wool, etc. In this form of the invention an intermediateliner is used. and

aiaaasa at least those portions of said intermediate liner which areinserted in that part of the necktie normally contacting the neck of thewearer and adjacent to the shaping linerare made of or contain athermoplastic material in a condition such that upon application to theassembly of heat and/or pressure, the assembly will coalesce and unitethe tie fabric to the shaping liner at those portions where thethermoplastic material is present.

In another form of my invention the tie fabric 6 contains filaments ofthermoplastic material while the shaping liner 8 is of linen, cotton,etc.` In this modiflcation the liner 8 is treated over a portion of itslength, particularly in the vicinity of the Opening therein, with aplasticizer for the thermoplastic material of the tie fabric. Uponsubjecting this assembly to heat and/or pressure the inner face of thetie fabric is caused to coalesce at that part where it contacts with theplasticized liner, thus effecting adherence of the tie fabric to theliner at that part only. The tie fabric, however, may contain onlynon-thermoplastic materials, while the shaping liner 8 may comprise afabric containing thermoplastic yarns or filaments. In thismodification, a plasticizer may be applied to a portion of the liner,which portion, upon the application of heat and/or pressure, coalescesto the tie fabric. By these latter two methods, a necktie which isstiffened at predetermined portions only may be formed. For example, thenecktie may be stiffened at that portion which contacts with the back ofthe collar of the wearer and at that portion where the liner has theOpening therein, the remaining portion of the tie being of normaliiexibility.

In any of the modifications of this invention. the necktie may be formedby sewing the parts thereof together in the usual manner and theneffecting the coalescence and stiffening of the fabric and the linerafter the necktie is formed. In this manner there is no necessity forsewing or working with stiff fabrics, or fabrics containing gums, gluesor other adhesive materials which tend to interfere with the handling orsewing of the fabric.

This application is applicable to the formation of neckties in which theouter or tie fabric contains yarns of non-thermoplastic materialsinterwoven or interknitted with yarns or filaments of a thermoplasticmaterial. For instance, there may be employed as the outer or tiefabric, fabrics in which yarns of `a thermoplastic material alternate,in any desired degree of alternation, with non-thermoplastic yarnseither in the warp or in the weft, or both. The alternation may, forinstance, be one, two, three or more thermoplastic yarns with one, two,three or more yarns of cotton, silk, or other non-thermoplasticmaterials. For convenience, the outer or tie fabric may be formed sothat the warp may be made with such alternation of yarn of thermoplasticmaterial and yarns of other fibres, while the weft may consist wholly ofyarns of a thermoplastic material or wholly of yarns of other flbres.

If desired, the outer or tie fabric may be one in which either the warpor the weft consists solely of yarn of a thermoplastic material, whilethe shaping liner is made of any suitable material impregnated with asufiicient amount of plasticizer for the thermoplastic materialcontained in the tie fabric. The assembly of fabrics may be caused toadhere to each other by subjecting the same to heat and/or pressure inthe presence or absence of water. The coalescence aiaaese of the tiefabric and the liner under these conditions results in no alternation ofthe outer surface of the tie fabric since the plasticizer on the linercauses the thermoplastic material of only the inner side of the tiefabric to soften or become tacky and adhere to the liner.

Where the tie fabric is made entirely of nonthrmoplastic yarns, theliner maybe made wholly of yarns or fllaments of a thermoplasticmaterial or a mixture of yarns of a thermoplastic material with yarns ofnon-thermoplastic materiai. These yarns may be woven or knitted in anydegree of alternation as described above with reference to the making ofthe tie fabric.

If desirecl, the thermoplastic material may be present on the liner inthe form of a coating. For example, non-thermoplastic flbers employed asa liner may be coated with a powder or a slurry containing thethermoplastic material and a plasticizer therefor, or the liner may betreated with a plasticizer and then coated with a thermoplasticmaterial.

To obtain a good adhesion and desirable stiffening in the necktie, orselected portions thereof, it is preferable to have water present duringthe application of heat and/or pressure, but it is to be understood thatthis is not essential to the successful working of this invention. Thewater may be present as an aqueous liquid or as steam and it is appliedto the assembly of fabric and liner in any suitable manner. Thus, thewater may be applied to the assembly by spraying or brushing the sametherewith or by padding the water on the material or by dipping the samein the water. Where the tie fabrio does not contain a thermoplasticmaterial, in place of water there may be employedl as an aid incoalescing the parts oomprising the neclrtie an aqueous solution ofalcohol, with or without a plasticizer for the thermoplastic material.If steam is employed, it is preferable to employ a Wet steam and thesame may be injected onto or into the materials of the necktie duringthe pressing operation in a manner similar to that effeoted during thepressing of woolen iabrics.

Any suitable device may be used for pressing the assembled layers ofmaterial to cause them to adhere to one another. For instance, thematerials of the necktie may be pressed with hot irons, or they may bepassed between pressure roliers one or both of which may be heated, orbetween a heated pressing iron or plate and a cold board or surface. Thepressing device may be heated to any desirable temperature. forinstanoe, from C. to C. or higher, and the pressure may be cf anydesired degree, for example, from 10 to 600 or more pounds per Squareinch. The thermoplastic material employed in accordance with thisinvention, Whether it is present in the tie fabric or in the liners oras a coating on the material, may be any suitable derivative ofcellulose, for instance, esters of cellulose and cellulose ethers..Examples of the cellulose esters are cellulose nitrate, celluloseacetate, cellulose formate, cellulose propionate and cellulose butyrate,while examples of the cellulose ethers are ethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, and benzyl cellulose.

,' In order that the desired degree of stifiening qoand adherence beobtained upon heat pressing the assembly, comprising the tie fabric andone or more liners, either in the presence or absence of water, it ispreferable that there be present in the said assembly a plasticizer,softener or swelling agent for the derivative of cellulose employed inthe assembly. Where the tie fabric is made of non-thermoplasticmaterials, theplasticizer or softener may be applied to the assem-Z bly,after the formation thereof, by dipping the same into a solutionoontaining the plasticizer'y or softener. I-Iowever, it ispreferable toapply the plasticizer to a liner. When applying the pla-s; ticizer tothe liner prior to forming the assembly, no wetting of the outer or tiefabric is nec'es`-' sary. Where it is desired that the exposed sure'face of the ``-tie fabric remain in its normal con'- dition, i. e.unmodifled, the plasticizer should'no't be applied thereto, at least noton the outer surface thereof. '3

The plasticizer may be applied to the tie fabric'.v or liners in anysuitable manner. Thus, .the plasticizer or softening agent for thederivative' of' cellulose employed in the assembly may be applied to orincorporated in the material by passing that part of the material whichit is desiredl to contain the plasticizer through a solution ofplasticizer, by padding the plasticizer on the material or by sprayinga. solutionof the'plasticizer in a volatile solvent onto the material:However, when the liner of the fabric contains yarns of an organicderivative of cellulose, the' .boiling solvents or softening agents as,for example, the aryl sulphonamides such as para ethyi toluolsulphonamide, the alkyl phthalates such as dimethyl phthalate, thedialkyl tartrates" such as dibutyl tartrate, the alkoxy esters ofpolybasic organic acids such as diethyoxy ethyl phthalate, the polybasicacid esters of the mono alhyl ethers of polyhydric alooholssuch asdiethylene glycol ethyl ether ester of phtha'lic acid; the alkyl estersof phosphoric acid such as thiethylglycol phosphate, the aryl esters ofphosphoric acid such as tricresyi phosphate, the mixed alkyl and arylphosphate such as ethylglycol dicresyl phosphate, and camphor The amountof plasticizer present is' preferably relatively large and on the orderof from lessthan 30% to l50% or more, based on the weight of the organicderivative of cellulose present, in

that part of the assembly of fabrics which is to' therein withoutdeparting from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire' to secure by LettersPatent i'sz. r 4.

1. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie -fabriccontaining a thermopiastic m'a-i terial -and being folded in the form'of a four-inhand tie, said tie Acontaining within the folds'- thereof ashaping liner of non-thermoplastic ma-f' terial having a notched end,which shaping liner 7.5;-

is at least locally united to said tie fabric by the thermoplasticmaterial contained therein, the construction and arrangement being suchthat when the tie is placed about the neck of the wearer and knotted thenotched portion falls just below the knot of the tie and the spacedstrips of the notched portion extend for a substantial distance belowthe knot.

2. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric containingcellulose acetate and being folded in the form of a four-in-handtie,said tie containing within the folds thereof a shaping liner ofnon-thermoplastic material having a notched end, which shaping liner isat least locally united to said tie fabric by the cellulose acetatecontained therein, the construction and arrangement being such that whenthe tie is placed about the neck of the wearer and knotted the notchedportion falls just below the knotof the tie and the spaced strips of thenotched portion extend for a substantial distance below the knot.

3. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric containinga non-thermoplastic material and being folded in the form of afourin-hand tie, said tie containing within the folds thereof a shapingliner of thermoplastic material having a'notched end, which shapingliner is at least locally united to the said tie fabric by thethermoplastic material contained in said shaping liner, the constructionand arrangement being such that when the tie is placed about the neck ofthe wearer and knotted the notched portion falls just below the knot ofthe tie and the spaced strips of the notched portion extend for asubstantial distance below the knot.

4. A- necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabriccontaining a non-thermoplastic material and being folded in the form ofa fourin-hand tie, said tie containing within the folds thereof ashaping liner of an organic derivative of cellulose having a notchedend, which shaping liner is at least locally united to the saidtiefabric by the organic derivative of cellulose contained in said shapingliner, the construction and arrangement being such that when the tie isplaced about the neck of the wearer and knotted the notched portionfalls just below the knot of the tie and the spaced strips of thenotched portion extend for a substantial distance below the knot.

5. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric ofnon-thermoplastic material folded in the form of a four-in-hand tie, anda shaping liner contained within the folds of said tie, said shapingliner comprising a notched piece of material containing a thermoplasticderivative of cellulose and located in the vicinity of the knot-formingregion, the tie fabric and the shaping liner being at least locallyunited by the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose contained in saidshaping liner.

6. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric ofnon-thermoplastic material folded in the form of a four-in-hand tie, anda shaping liner contained within the folds of said tie, said shapingliner comprising a notched piece of material containing celluloseacetate and located in the vicinity of the knotforming region, the tiefabric and the shaping liner being at least locally united by thecellulose acetate contained in said shaping liner.

7. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric ofnon-thermopla'stic material folded in the form of a four-in-hand tie, aliner of n'on-thermoplastic material contained within the folds of saidti, and a shaping liner comprising a notched piece of materialcontaining a thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and located in thevicinity of the knot-forming region, the tie fabric and the shapingliner being at least locally united by the thermoplastic derivative ofcellulose contained in said shaping liner.

8. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric ofnon-thermoplastic material folded in the form of a four-in-hand tie, aliner of non-thermoplastic material contained within the folds of saidtie, and a shaping liner comprising a notched piece of materialcontaining an organic derivative of cellulose and located in thevicinity of the knot-forming region, the tie fabric and the shapingliner being at least locally united by the organic derivative ofcellulose contained in said shaping liner.

9. A necktie of improved construction comprising a tie fabric ofnon-thermoplastic material folded in the form of a four-in-hand tie, aliner of non-thermoplastic material contained within the folds of saidtie, and a shaping liner comprising a notched piece of materialcontaining cellulose acetate and located in the vicinity of theknot-forming region, the tie fabric and the shaping liner being at leastlocally united by the cellulose acetate contained in said shaping liner.

ALFRED J. STEINBERGER.

